- 06/27/2014
- 2 Min Read
- By: Alex Fiehl
How to DIY Replace a Volvo 850/S70 Front Wheel Bearing
I drive my car a lot. My car breaks a lot. A match made in heaven, right? While convenient for giving me a lot to write about, I really don't like doing the same job twice, especially when I need my Volvo S70 for blasting down the PA turnpike on a regular basis. Quality parts are worth every single penny you spend on them, and bearings are no joke. My driver's side front bearing has been howling for a few weeks now, and it was time to go.
What I'm trying to say is, this isn't a job you want to do twice. Quite often the ball joint bolts are frozen and the axles are seized into the hubs, making this 1-2 hour job a 4-5 hour nightmare. Having spare hardware on hand is something I highly recommend.
This procedure is applicable to all Volvo 850, S/V/C70 models of the same era, with minor variations throughout.
Parts List:
- FAG Wheel Bearing Hub - $129.95
- Hub Bolts - $2.95 x4 per side
- Ball Joint Bolt (988185) and Nut (987891)
Tools:
- E14 or E16 Torx socket
- 10-19mm sockets
- 32 or 36mm Axle Nut Socket (If '98 or lower)
- Big Hammer
Procedure:
There are two ways to go about this. One way may require an alignment, one may not. Loosening the two strut-to-knuckle bolts will allow you to flop the knuckle forward and remove the axle out of the hub, allowing complete access without touching the ball joint. In some cases, the knuckle's position will have previously been dialed in during a camber alignment. While there aren't camber adjustment bolts on these cars, the knuckle can be tilted fore and aft to allow some adjustment, and this can cause the car to pull left or right if the exact location is not reinstated after replacing the bearing. This is why I recommend removing the lower ball joint from the knuckle if at all possible, as it maintains alignment before and after the job is done.
Remove the wheel center cap.
Remove the axle bolt (or nut). The car should still be on the ground for this, and if your car has a large axle nut, you'll need a large breaker bar and socket for this. 99+ vehicles simply have a 14mm bolt.
Jack up both sides of the car and set it on jackstands. It's imperative that both sides are in the air, as the sway bar link will not come out smoothly if the other wheel is on the ground. Remove the caliper's two 15mm bolts and set the caliper aside, preferably hanging from the spring up high. No need to remove the pads or split the caliper halves. Remove the ABS sensor wire from the strut. Remove the rotor and set it aside.
Remove the sway bar link and push it aside. This may be a 15mm or 17mm nut, in my experience. If you don't have an impact gun, use a box wrench on the nut with a T30 torx bit in the link's stud.
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The ball joint is next - gather up some various extensions and don't be mad if it puts up a fight. Often times heat is needed, or the bolt will just shear off if the control arm has never been replaced. You'll have a spare on hand that you purchased before getting into this though. (HIGHLY recommended, these never come out clean)
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Smack the control arm down to release it from the hub. This could take minutes or hours, and gallons of penetrating oil. Once you've discovered what works for you, you're ready to pop out the axle and set it aside. Don't remove it from the transmission - there's no need, and you'll have to clean up fluid if you do.
Axle partially out, knuckle removed from ball joint
With the axle out, you can actually pop the ball joint back into the knuckle for support. Turn the knuckle left or right to get a good angle, and start removing the external torx bolts from the wheel bearing. Be VERY careful to fully insert the bolt into the socket and only apply reverse torque when you're sure it's on straight. Stripping these will ruin your day. Heat can't hurt, neither can penetrating lubricant on the exposed threads. I usually need a breaker bar for these, and a steady hand with a lot of patience.
With the bolts removed, simply smack the bearing out from the front at an angle. It should pop out of the knuckle pretty easily after a few heavy hits. (A 3lb+ hammer helps tremendously)
Reinstallation is reverse of removal :-)
Torque Specs:
Wheel Bearing to Knuckle Bolts: 33ft-lb + 60º
Ball Joint Nut+Bolt: 13ft-lb + 120º
'99- Axle Bolt: 26ft-lbs + 90º
-'98 Axle Nut: 89ft-lbs + 60º
About the Author: Alex Fiehl
Alex is FCP's Blog Editor and an IT technician from Endwell, NY. He has over 8 years of experience working on a wide array of import makes, but lately is partial to Volvo . For some reason he just purchased a Volkswagen, and is excited to see what breaks first.
